Monday, April 30, 2007

More Shopping and Cultural Experiences

Saturday began with a bit of work meetings during which we discussed exciting plans of our future training strategy involving very interesting work and potentially travel. Afterwards, we went to town for lunch and more shopping. For lunch, I had a huge paper-thin dosa (pancake) with potatoes inside, which is a traditional south Indian dish (could be eaten for both breakfast and lunch).

Our first shopping stop was at a handicrafts/jewelry store owned by my boss’s friend. This man is really interesting: he is a Sufi (mystical branch of Islam) and believes and writes about healing with crystals. He fed us tea and delicious peach cake and talked to us about his belief in the power of gems to heal. While his doctrine was definitely weird, it was interesting to listen to him talk about Indian culture. In his opinion, both Christianity and Islam have contributed significantly to the development of the country and its cultural heritage (schools, hospitals, Taj Mahal), while Hinduism has only left people in underdevelopment. His store is also very interesting since he collects many Indian antiques and contributes part of the earnings to the anti-dowry movement in the state of Kashmir.

While I don’t really wear or get excited about jewelry, but there was something at this place almost magnetic that was drawing me to the jewelry. Zafar showed us a number of antique pieces and several loose gems (most gorgeous blue topaz) which made me wonder that such beauty has weird powers over a human heart. I did end up buying some souvenirs at his shop and taking pictures of the beautiful pieces he showed us (he even let me try this gorgeous antique yellow topaz necklace which just made my skin tingle:)



After the jewelry/crafts store, we had a traditional local snack/drink: coconut water and soft coconut. It had a very rich taste, but made me realize that I prefer hard coconut. We then stocked up on some Indian tea and met a collaborator for a brief meeting and dinner.

Wednesday, April 25, 2007

Some pictures

The story is not over yet...actually, some of the most exciting things happened the last 2 days of the trip. However, Im too tired to write, so here are some photos.

Indian village sight


Our group on the field trip


Silk producer holding a silk warm cocoon


More monkeys!!!


Bird Sanctuary

Tuesday, April 24, 2007

Girls' Night Out in Bangalore

Friday was the last day of the training and consisted of mostly evaluations of the course and working groups to tease out some of what the participants learned throughout the week. In the evening, our collaborator from ISEC invited my boss and myself for a girls’ night out in Bangalore, which implied shopping and getting dinner in town. Of course, since my appetite for Indian shopping was whetted earlier in the week, I got very excited since there were still parts of Bangalore famous for good shopping that we haven’t explored. However, there was a mix-up with the car that was supposed to be sent for us, so my boss suggested another cultural experience for me…taking a three-wheeled open taxi (called auto?) into town. Well, let me just say that I didn’t think that I was going to live through that part of my life. Since Indians generally have a different idea of personal space than Westerners, it is also reflected in how close to each other they drive. Add to this Friday night rush-hour congestion, and you may begin to understand how scared out of my pants I was during the 45 minute ride into town.

However, once we got to Commercial street, famous for street shopping, my adrenaline kicked in, and I forgot all about the ride. It was sooo fun walking around, looking at all sorts of textiles, jewelry, and clothing items and realizing how cheap it all was (the place where we went shopping earlier in the week was more middle-class, hence more expensive). After satisfying our shopping crave a little bit, we went to a Chinese restaurant for dinner. By the way, Chinese is becoming really popular in India; however, it comes with a certain spin (i.e. spicy), but still quite good. I also discovered one of my very favorite drinks…fresh lime soda: super delicious and incredibly thirst-quenching.

Even though we took the same three-wheeler back home, the adrenaline form shopping acted as a relaxant, so I wasn’t nervous and freaking out on the ride back to ISEC.

Friday, April 20, 2007

A Day in the Indian Countryside

Thursday was the field trip day. We left the ISEC Campus at 6am and headed to the Mandya district located about 3 hours east of Bangalore. To better fit in with the crowd (if that is possible with my fair skin and light hair), I wore the traditional Indian outfit consisting of a long tunic, shawl, and loose pants lent to me by my boss (I must admit it was incredibly comfortable).On the way, we stopped for breakfast, and I tried some more traditional Indian breakfast foods. I must say that here people eat mostly salty things for breakfast, while I need some sugar in the morning...however, the local rice-flour pancake, or dosa, is quite tasty dipped in sugar.

Our first stop was at the water supply system. For a Russian turned Westerner like myself, it is hard to imagine a dryland area where people don't have access to irrigation. However, this is the case of most places in Asia and Africa. We met with the representatives of a water users association and talked to them about how they manage their watershed. While that part was interesting, I was also excited about experiencing a few new things along the way. Seeing how rice paddy is grown in standing water, noticing many Hindu mini-temples along the road, and watching how local women go about de-husking their millet crops gave me further insights into the local culture.

One very exciting experience was learning how silk is made. At one of the houses, the ladies showed us shelves full of silk worms eating mulberry leaves before they mature and begin forming cacoons. Then the matured worms are put into the round tubes made out of banana (?) leaves and left there to form their cocoons. Then, the cocoons are taken to a silk factory, where the actual silk is spun.

Our next stop was supposed to be with a group caught in a water dispute; however, when we got to the site, it turned out to be a massive group protest...We were escorted to a place in the middle, photographed numerous times, and addressed by the leaders of the protest as if we were coming to join forces with them. This was my first real-life experience with a mass social movement, and I must admit that I felt a bit uncomfortable (Im starting to suspect that Im a bit agoraphobic).

Since I have been eating vegetarian since I got to India, my carnivore gene was demanding meat, which I ordered at a lovely restaraunt where we stopped for lunch. I learned my lesson...don't ask for meat in India. Besides being the food of a lower class, hence less elaborate, it was plain tough and hard to chew. After lunch we visited a Revenue Dept Office to observe their new system of land registration, which was rather interesting since most villages in India have numerous private plots in addition to a number of common-property areas.

The best part of the day came at the end. On the way back home we stopped at a lovely bird sanctuary and had a relaxing boat tour to see and hear numerous birds that migrate from other parts of India, North Africa, and even Siberia and Canada for a few months to this sanctuary that spans several mini-islands. We also saw several crocodiles, one of which slowly snuck upon a little bird lingering on the lower branch of a tree and snatched it for his dinner.

The day ended on a 3-hour bus ride during which we were subjected to watching this very Indian (hence, silly with lots of singing and dancing) movie which apparently was a big hit when it first came out. Overall, it was a very enlighting day which put many theoretical concepts that I deal with in my everyday work into real-life perspective.

Tuesday, April 17, 2007

More impressions from India and workshop

Today was the second day of the workshop and since I didn't have to be so focused on my own presentation, I could actually observe the participants and process my thoughts on India.

First of all, Im having a difficulty understanding all the accents. Besides, those who give me grief about talking fast...listen to some people from Sri Lanka, and you will think that I talk too slowly. People who have gathered at the training come from an interesting mix of research, practitioner, and government backgrounds, so the discussions are quite animated. Im especially amazed at the guys from Bhutan--they are quite proficient in English and quite vocal in the discussions, especially on the issues of gender.

The food is also growing on me...Im beginning to get used to the tastes and flavors and can kind of tell what looks spicy, so by avoiding those things Im getting along quite nicely. For breakfast this morning we had delicious pancakes made out of rice flower...very tasty.

Tonight after the sessions a group of us went into town for some shopping. If I hadn't been to Kampala (Uganda), I would have said that this is the worst traffic Ive ever seen (it's tied with Kampala). However, there are also open motor taxis, motorcycles, buses and people everywhere, so Im surprised that drivers are able to navigate the mess. Even though I thought that I was going to go wild over the crafts, I controlled myself and only got a few things (my boss and I are going back this weekend). However, I did end up buying a tons of books at a tiny bookstore, which offset not buying many crafts and souvernirs. All the books were $10 and under!!!

On the way back to ISEC our van got scratched by a bus (those who know me well can imagine how badly I was freaking out). Our driver pulled over, got out of the bus, and immediately there were about 20 men around him shouting, screaming, and waving their hands all at the same time...PTL this happened almost outside our gate so we just hurried inside to avoid getting stuck in the fight.

Monday, April 16, 2007

First days in Bangalore

While the rest of the journey was rather uneventful, the arrival was interesting: it took me literally 1 minute to clear immigration (American immigration officers have a lesson to learn from their Indian counterparts), it took almost an hour for the bags to arrive. In addition, once you walk outside of the building, you are immediately accosted by numerous men trying to carry you suitcases, walk you to your vehicles, and be of some service to you. Needless to say, at 2am after having flown for 2 days, that was rather annoying to me.

I got to ISEC around 2:30am and slept until almost noon the next day. My boss, who got in at 6am the same morning, was up at the same time and ready to work after lunch. I was sooo out of it the whole day (probably the worst jetlag Ive ever had) and wondered where this amazing woman (my boss) gets the energy. We worked some yesterday, but today was the first day of the conference. We have about 21 participants from South Asia (India, Nepal, Sri Lanka, and Bhutan). I gave my presentation this morning, which I think went well since it generated an interesting discussion among the participants. So, now I can breathe out and enjoy the rest of the week.

ISEC has a rather nice campus, fairly isolated from the rest of Bangalore. It has some nice trails, which Im getting ready to explore tomorrow morning. While it is somewhat green around, you can tell that this is a dry season. I got a "suite" guest room, which means that I have a living room and a bedroom. It is pretty hot here, but all rooms and meeting halls have AC and fans, so I haven't been super hot yet.

Now about the food...it can be summarized in 2 words: traditional and spicy!!! Everything, even some rice dishes, are spicy hot, which is taking my stomach a while to adjust to. It is also very traditional, even breakfast (this morning we had chutney and vermicelli...PTL for universal eggs and cheese). To my relief, there is always rice and yogurt (curd), and Im enjoying the tradition of eating with your hands by wrapping food in pieces of chapati (Indian bread). In addition, all dishes have a lot of flavor (seasoned with many different spices) unlike most Russian and American dishes, which is taking a bland eater such as myself a while to get used to. The desserts, however, are delicious (but of course, I can't remember the name of a single one).

Well, Im still terribly jetlagged, so Im off to bed. More on other observations tomorrow.

Saturday, April 14, 2007

Traveling update

Even though Im not done travelling, Im sitting in the Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris and was able to connect to the internet through a wonderful global network that my organization offers. So far, it hasn't been a great trip. My assumption that since Air France is part of the same network as KLM, the service offered would be similar to that of KLM...well, I was wrong. The planes are old and uncomfortable, the service sucks (no smiling polished Dutch girls), and there is barely enough bathrooms for everyone on the plane. So, I wasn't able to sleep a wink at the same time fighting off germs that have migrated across my office from my sick co-worker to me over the past few days. In addition, the airport is absolutely atrocious (I miss Amsterdam). Once we got off the plane, we were first loaded onto a bus that took us to a terminal, then had to wait for another bus to take us on a jam packed 15 min bus ride to another terminal, which happens to be directly across from the first one. While this inefficiency nearly drove me to my grave, I did have a croissant and some tea and met a really neat girl from Botswana, so things are not as bad as they seem.Im mentally preparing for a 9.5 hour flight to Bangalore.

Thursday, April 12, 2007

Why I am going

It's for a conference...as always! But this time, it is a training workshop, and I get to make a presentation, which I created and am proud of in a weird way. Im also excited to see India. It was the country that my grandmother always dreamed of visiting and did about 20 years ago, so I feel like my going is sort of a continuation of family history. I'm going to Bangalore, which is in the southern part of the country in the state of Karnataka. We will be working with the Institute for Social and Economic Change (ISEC) and co-hosting a training on Property Rights, Collective Action, and Environmental Governance for South Asian researchers and practitioners. This is going to be a work trip (i.e. no fun activities), but some shopping is scheduled!!! Im leaving tomorrow, but still not a single thing packed...I better get to it.